![]() Unfortunately, this point is unique to each lens/camera combination and has to be experimented with. With a nodal head, the camera can be slid forward/backward to a point where no parallax occurs when rotating the camera. This makes it hard to stitch images consistently. Without a nodal head, the camera will rotate around some arbitrary point and parallax occurs. The Nodal Ninja is the first piece specifically for panorama creation. The cable release is not strictly necessary but is a nice bonus to reduce camera shake. The 10-18mm IS is particularly nice as it’s fairly cheap and has a surprisingly good image quality. When it comes to lens, especially on a non-full-frame camera where the crop factor applies, going wide reduces the number of images that have to be taken. I’ve decided against a fisheye lens because they were a) more expensive and b) a “normal” lens is much more versatile. The camera itself is nothing special, any reasonable DSLR or other camera will do as long as it supports bracket exposures (for generating HDRs) and full manual mode.
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